Saturday, April 4, 2009

last mass email..at least for a while...

Hello All,

(the surprise will follow this paragraph...it's like christmas, you have to wait for the good presents!)

So it has been a while since you have heard from me. I apologize for it being so long between emails. I've spent three months at my site in Nambuma loving life, loving teaching, loving my students and my village. Of course there were ups and downs: dealing with corrupt administrators at my school, learning how to light charcoal without losing my eyebrows, learning that I cannot do everything asked of me even if I tried. I found my place in that school to be more of a guidance counselor type. My students spent afternoons on my porch talking about their lives, their families, their incredible stories, and I felt comfortable in that position. The Reverend's family (my neighbours) took care of me: the 9 year old girl, Chisomo, would wake me up at the crack of dawn just so she could give me tomatoes or ask if I wanted to go get water at the borehole...so at 6:00 in the morning you would find me either with a bowl of 20 tomatoes or a bucket of water on my head. I spent time in the city of Lilongwe relaxing with my beautiful friends in Peace Corps and I spent time at my site making incredible friends (including a Minister of Parliment's son...celebrity, eh?).

I love Peace Corps and I love Malawi. So much.

But as of right now, I am home on the Cape. Due to a complicated situation I'm not exactly allowed to discuss, I had to leave Malawi...

Don't worry: I am safe, I am healthy, and I am okay. I arrived in DC last week and home a couple of days ago (my cat got so FAT). It is incredibly surreal to be back home, back in the states, back under these circumstances.

I have many things to figure out including if I want to go back to Peace Corps. I have a year to decide if I want to be reinstated, but due to the circumstances, Iprobably cannot return to Peace Corps Malawi. I'm thinking I'll spend a few weeks bumming around seeing people and maybe end up in NYC or San Francisco with a sister...I'll figure it out eventually, right?

I am sorry I had to send this in an email, but I wanted to let you all know before the phones started ringing.

Sending my love,
Erica

Saturday, February 28, 2009

In the city with a ton of other people. I came on Thursday to get away from site and get a nice long break. I needed it. A lot of the conversations surrounding sites have to do with how much we love our sites, but also, there is a certain amount of time away needed. I can maybe last three weeks at site before I need to come to the city to unwind. Last night Meagan, Natalie, Bryan and I went to diplomats and had a ton of fun. Irish ex-pats, rastas, and a very gentlemanly Peace Corps boy who protected us. Oh, Bryan. Bryan is officially my chibwenzi to any sketchy Malawian men who approach me. And he is just damn good at being my chibwenzi. He was dancing with the men last night to turn them away from coming near us. What a guy.

The past three weeks have been relatively low-key. Classes are good. Teachers are still corrupt. No electricity. Still smell like campfire. I probably will for the rest of my life. Joe is introducing me to more and more people making it easier to be at site. Charles has made my life as my adorable lil boo who is constantly at my hip. He waits for me outside the school gate until school is over and all of the students know him and know who he’s waiting for. I scoop him up into my arms and take him home with me. I can’t handle it sometimes. Kennedy and I have gotten into a nice routine as well. I usually mark homework outside on my porch (in dire need of some Adirondack chairs, mama…project when you get here?). But the past two weeks Kennedy has been reading/playing/chatting alongside with me every single day. He comes over at three after lunch and stays until dark when the mosquitoes come out to scare us away or until Joe comes over and scares Kennedy away. It’s a nice routine and it hasn’t gotten old. He is like a little brother to me teaching me Chichewa, giving me exercise when he steals Lolo and threatens to throw her into a pack of cows, making me laugh with his Terminator impression, etc. He told me if I cut my hair, he’ll never speak to me again. Uh-oh.

Gave my Form One students a test last week. I am learning more and more that this class is more ESL teaching than anything. The other teachers sometimes teach in English and they usually just lecture and give notes. I go in there and I want question and answers, but they are completely clueless. Putting a decent sentence together takes days.

My Form Three boys are still incredible learners and hilarious. My Form Four class had a debate on abortion last week, which was very interesting. It turned into a conversation about using protection and contraception. A quote: “But Madam, is a candy as sweet with the wrapper on? And how can you know how to play a game without knowing all of the positions?” (similar to Omni-bambo, eh, Tim?)

Speaking of game, my football team is kicking a**. Nambuma boys are just doing so well. The game itself is a blast. A crowd of people run around the field the entire game singing and dancing and when a goal is scored, everyone runs into the field to shake their butts at the other team. Many of my older students (in their 20s) were drinking, but it wasn’t too bad. As soon as we get electricity, I’m organizing a variety show and a disco for my students. They are supposed to have activities planned by the school every weekend. They haven’t had activities since the school started 8 years ago.

A bunch of us are trying to plan on a trip to Mozambique in April after In-Service training. I can’t wait. The traveling part (hitching) will be a chore, but getting to see different parts of Malawi and the countries around us will just make me feel more on the map. I was telling someone the other day that I hardly ever feel like I’m in Africa until I talk to my family, friends, and Victalla (Chichewa-ized version of my boyfriend’s name). The novelty has worn off and the honeymoon stage of my culture shock has quickly disappeared. This is becoming a routine and a life I will have for 21 more months (can you believe it?), a job that I am constantly surprised at how much I enjoy it. I think I am loving the guidance counselor aspect of my job more than teaching. It is making me think about grad school (taking GREs next year in Lilongwe). What for? I don’t know. But I need to go to school for something I love. Let’s figure that out soon, yeah?

I am so lucky to be here and to be happy. I am always going to be grateful for that.

Happy Birthday, big sis.
Happy Birthday, Collin Begley.

<3

Friday, February 6, 2009

rough week

I have decided that I am a terrible blogger. I put my pictures on Facebook where ya’ll can’t see ‘em, ha! And I get here to Lilongwe and totally don’t know what to say. A lot has happened this week. A lot a lot. And I’m pretty exhausted. I’m still sick. Can’t seem to shake this flu-ish thing.

I haven't had a phone since Tuesday because electricity has been out and my phone died and now I have left my phone at home by accident.

Monday I walked out of my Form II math class after a really good lesson and I found almost all of the Form III boys surrounding this one Form I boy, William. They were yelling, in Chichewa, obviously teasing him. I stepped between the Form III boys and William and got them to stop. William told me what happened and other students who were there told me what they were saying. It was absolutely terrible. I got the names of the three boys who were the ringleaders. I walked into the staff room and asked the teachers what they do at this school for bullying. Half said expulsion, half said suspension…so what do they give as punishment to the three boys? Slashing grass. I was PISSED. I realize that I am underrated as a 22 year old at that school. I should be in Form III at that age. And I realize that I’m just the “azungu” to some of the teachers there, but slashing grass after I told them exactly what witnesses told me had happened and William? Why? I don’t know. Even Bonface who was one of the ringleaders who was upset I caught him told me what happened.

That started my week of coming to understand what this school is all about. I’m not supposed to speak ill of my coworkers and school. I am just very frustrated this week.

However, Tuesday and Wednesday made up for it. Tuesday afternoon, Joe came over while some of my students were over doing some work. He told me that on Wednesday he was going to call me about a certain “function.” And I was reminded by that smirk on his face that Wednesday was his birthday and I completely forgot. More on that later.

Tuesday night I had a conversation that gave me clarity of what I want and need in my life and what I want to give to one person more than anyone. I could talk for hours, for days, for months, for a long time in that sense. It helped me, too, you know. And I just want to be good enough for me and good enough for you.

Wednesday after school, I had a few students over again, as always, and they were asking me very serious questions about pregnancy and abortion when Joe comes over and tells me to get my bag, “We’re going shopping.” I told my students we’d continue the conversation in Life Skills or after school on Thursday and I followed orders. He took me to the market to buy certain things for this “function” and all the while, I was asking him what he was doing to celebrate. He started telling me he’ll be eating chicken and celebrating with his family and friend Ken. Then he started asking me questions about how I like to cook my chicken, etc. I was very confused. We bought fantas, bisquits, salt, and oil. We walked around the market to wasted time before the “function” and finally ended up in front of my house. “I’ll go see if Ken can get the powers and I’ll meet you here. Start the fire. We have to kill the chicken.” WHAT? At my house, apparently we were having the function. Thankfully it ended up just being me, Joe, and Ken. We killed the chicken (oh god…what can I say about this?...not a fan…), and I cooked TERRIBLE rice. Of course on his birthday, I make terrible rice. And it takes us FOREVER to cook the chicken so we don’t eat until 9. Then we have powers shots and fantas. My night guard at the school must be spreading rumors about me already. Honestly, after what was happening at my school this week, I could care less. But two men at my house past sunset? Oh, heavens.

Thursday I have a drunk man on my stoop proposing to me. A teacher from the primary school asking me if I "practice" with my chibwenzi (boy/girlfriend). I have gotten many proposals from men here in many different ways…but this was incredible. Funny and terrible. I kept telling him it was not a conversation I wanted to have with him and he kept insisting that the Americans have invented condoms so Africans can practice before getting married. It was terrible. Talking about the “dirty disease” that is killing so many of his friends, but he was happy because condoms would help him. Not okay. But thankfully my tactic of telling him my chibwenzi is a heavyweight boxer (aren’t you something like that?) got him a little scared and he left.

Friday: school cleaning the first few periods. My students found a sick baby outside the school. I was leaving for Lilongwe and they found a man to take him to the hospital with me. Starving. Sick. Weeping. Hardly holding up his head. I don’t know what to say about it.

Rough week at school, but I’m better now. I’ll be okay. Just need some rest, I think.

I came to Lilongwe for internet, money, shopping, and mail. Mail. Mail. Mail. I got Christmas packages and pictures, and cookies, and fiber, and jerky, and laundry sheets, and speakers, and letters from my loves, and mix cds, and just lovely lovely things. The Christmas pictures made me cry, as funny as they were.

I miss you guys.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

me plus one

Antelope Loveness. Lolo. a new addition to my Malawian adventure. She's black and white and beautiful and tiny and sweet. A kitten from Africa. Think Zamba will mind?

In the city for restock. Feeling a bit under the weather, but it'll pass. The first month at site is going surprisingly well. I am in love with my Form Threes and my neighbours. I am doing well and I'm happy. It's hard to see how long the year will feel right now, but thankfully these restocks will be good reboots.

some news: MEAGAN WYLLIE IS MY NEW SITEMATE. sorry for the caps. it's just a pretty exciting tidbit, huh? We're maybe 25K away from each other, but this means the whole "attached at the hip" thing will become a literal phrase. My counterpart is very happy that I will have another azungu I am close with so near to Nambuma. That and he loves azungus.

I'll hopefully update this better in a couple of weeks with pictures and a longer post. Right now I just wanted to say hi.
lots of love,
erica